Anvil or Hammer


Posted in Climbing by Mike on September 28, 2006

Got 8 1/2 hours of sleep Tuesday night, for starters. That’s rare for me. We had been trying to watch some TV and I was doing that head dip thing, I never do that. So I slept in.

Went climbing last night. I started out ok. Warmed up well, worked through the intro problems and a few V1s, worked on my pet V2 that works some times and doesn’t others. I find the longer I work it the less likely I am to solve it. I still can’t quite figure out how to start it “technically” correct but that is ok.

I started playing around with just doing the Intro problems with twist locks and layback, a very hard thing for me to do. In both cases, you want to lean back and let the structures of the body support the weight, as I understand it. This means working with straight arms. This makes it hard to keep your grip strong, something talked about a bit by Roger of Atomic Athletic in his Strongman II DVD. I found it really hard to hang by one hand, from and easy grip, and let me arms and shoulders out then try to rotate the other arm up. It wasn’t long before I couldn’t hang from anything by my left hand.

Afterward I did a short quick hangboard workout. Laura, pound for pound, has a stronger pinch grip that I do. There are two points at the bottom outside edges of the board that she can hang from that I can not. She also managed to hang from a three finger hold on the board that I can’t. I played with one of the campus boards, not doing anything, just playing. Went down and did my rings stuff and went on my merry way.

I’m quite sore today from the sangbag and tire workout. I don’t know what today’s training will look like. I’m thinking light tire and Kettlebell. Maybe a jog. Dunno.

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