Anvil or Hammer


Posted in Uncategorized by Mike on August 18, 2006

Decent day climbing, setup my membership for the rest of the year (I was just on a summer pass) and bought a chalk bag while I was there. Now all I need is harnass, climbing wise. Since I mostly boulder, I bought one of the heavier ones that is wider at the bottom than the top so you can clip it to your belt or leave it on the ground.

Climbed (clumb) my usual routes, pulled off some V2 and V3s I had not done before. Got a little guidance, watched some people better than me. The guys here use flagging all the time. Beyond that, it seems full extension and just comfort on the wall are the most important.

I am starting to hit routes that exceed my capacity for hand strength at this time. V1 and V2s typically have easy hand holds that almost anyone can hang from, if you can do a pull up, you can hang from these. As I move on the V3 and up, more of the holds become textured bubbles or tight crimps. I’m trying to play it patient, many old timers say that young climbers waste too much time on hand strength (campus boards and hang boards) and not enough on technique. I just need to learn the techniques. I’m trying to iron out the details to spend a couple days in Seneca with Chris so he can teach me some of those.

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